Casting off to Moorea

So much has happened in the last few days; then again, not much has happened.

On Saturday we rented a car and went driving down Pacific Coast Highway!! That’s what I call it…there is only one road around the island and it is right along the Pacific. We stopped at a water lily park, went up a trail, saw some waterfalls, and ended up finding a fresh water pond. At one time only the royalty was allowed in this pond to wash off the salt water. The commoners were forbidden. I found this all out from a Tahitian man who was there with a bunch of kids he was letting cool off. He is a former Mormon Missionary.

Yuriko is a diabetic and had to have some medical supplies shipped here ahead of time to a pharmacy. She knew the pharmacist from the last time she was here and decided to invite him to dinner on the boat last Saturday night. When Patrick arrived his arms were carrying a big stalk of bananas as a present to her. It was fun to talk to him about Tahiti. He went through high school here and then to Paris for University. He works in a pharmacy now, but hopes to soon have a pharmacy of his own.

The next day we drove to Tahiti Iti (the small part of the island known as little Tahiti) to our friends’ home for an authentic Tahitian dinner. On the menu was poisson cru (raw fish), pork and cabbage, two types of cooked banana, taro, ipo (a big ball of bread dough with coconut milk) and Hinano’s, the beer of choice around here. Well, it wasn’t exactly all to my liking, but it was an experience!! I tried it all. This event was held at Pascal’s brother’s house. I took lots of pictures, because this is pretty typical of the houses the Tahitians live in. The kitchen and bathroom are outside in the backyard. Pascal’s brother, Frankie, sells plants from his backyard for a living. His aunt sends cactus to him from New Zealand. How can one make a living doing that?? Pascal grows tomatoes in his yard and sells them. I probably grow as many tomatoes as him. Both of their wives do not work other than raising their children.

Evidently, because the French did atomic bomb testing in French Polynesia, they pay every Tahitian a monthly stipend. The French in France do not like supporting the Tahitians with their taxes, but the Tahitians feel they more than deserve it due to the way their islands were abused.

After we left Frankie and Maya’s home we continued to drive south along Tahiti Iti until we came to the end of the road. We found ourselves at Teahupoo, where big surfing competitions are held every year. There was a monument in the middle of the street at the end of the road with all the winners’ names, including Kelly Slater (about 4 times). Big judging towers were set up out in the ocean, but far enough away from the outside reef where the surfing was happening. I can’t imagine how all the media and spectators converge on this little place. There is one café, a few beach shacks, and that’s about it.

Monday was laundry day. Jerry and Jock went to Papeete to take care of customs business and boat things while Yuriko and I did laundry at the Marina. Luckily there was a laundry facility at the marina. It only cost $8.00 a load! Then we took the wet clothes back to the boat and hung everything up to dry. And you thought I was on vacation!! Later we walked up to the local grocery store and bought supplies for our meals to last us for a while. Once we leave Tahiti it will be more difficult to get the things we like to eat. Going shopping takes about 3-4 hours. Walk there, look for stuff in the store among things that all look foreign, buy it, bag it, then haul it home. And did I mention it is sweltering hot??? In the afternoon we went out to the coral reef and went diving. That makes up for all the work we did earlier.

Some interesting things about the store: Lettuce and other salad type veggies come from Salinas. You have to pay $1 for a cart, but then get it back when you return the cart. The milk is not pasteurized, it is sterilized; therefore, the milk doesn’t get refrigerated! Delicious French bread baguettes are fifty cents, Champagne is very expensive, and it is difficult to find any California wine. We’ve been eating pretty well on the boat as Yuriko likes to cook delicious Japanese dishes for us.

There are dogs everywhere. They are not necessarily people’s pets, they just roam around. There doesn’t seem to any spaying or neutering going on. They are the ugliest mongrels I have ever seen. The combinations are producing some pretty unusual characteristics.

For my teacher friends…The students are taught English, French, and Tahitian. They also learn a little Tahitian history along with a big dose of French history. My Tahitian friends say they can’t stand the French, and this is one of the reasons. Why do they need to know about Louis Quatorze??

Today I rode the Ferry from Papeete to Moorea with Sabrina and her kids with the car. Pascal sailed with Jerry, Jock and Yuriko. It rained most of the way, but the sun was out in Moorea. This island is much more rural, less commercial, and very calm. Looking forward to seeing what this island is all about, I walked down the rocks to put my feet in the warm ocean. Coconuts were floating on the shore, big clam shells were left behind by someone, it was really nice. I decided to climb out of the water and up the rocks. Jerry extended a hand, I grabbed it and he pulled me up where I made a face plant into a metal fish stand. BAM! Right in the middle of my nose. Another souvenir from Paradise!!

Sabrina and Pascal wanted us to meet their Uncle and Aunt that are nursery owners in Moorea. So, we were picked up by their cousins and taken for another mystery adventure. It was dark, we were sitting in a car with people we never met, we can’t communicate with them and suddenly we are driving on a dirt road up a hill. Of course I started to think, “What have I gotten myself into this time!” All of a sudden we see the sparkling lights of Papeete across the ocean and realize we are at a golf course resort. Jerry was excited about that, even though it was dark. We get out and go around the back to the restaurant and there was their whole family waiting for us!! Aunts, Uncles, cousins, brothers, in-laws…you would think that we were long lost relatives. Anyway, we had a great dinner, I got to practice my French with Pascal’s uncle, the sister in law sitting next to me was about to give birth any minute, and Jock ended up doing a Tahitian dance!! Jerry played pool with the cousins and everyone enjoyed the Hinano’s. They drink it as if it were milk!! Well, the night ended with them promising to come to San Francisco someday. If they do, I’m inviting all of you to help us entertain them.